Saving seeds from your garden is one of the most rewarding and sustainable practices for any gardener. Not only does it allow you to preserve your favorite vegetable and herb varieties year after year, but it also helps you develop plants that are perfectly adapted to your local environment. Whether you’re growing heirloom tomatoes, vibrant squash, or hardy kale, saving seeds ensures that your garden’s legacy continues to flourish. Plus, it’s an excellent way to save money and reduce waste, making it a win-win for both you and the planet.
In this guide, we’ve compiled a comprehensive list of vegetable and herb varieties along with simple, practical tips for saving seeds from each one. Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or just starting out, you’ll find everything you need to begin your seed saving journey. From self-pollinating beans to wind-pollinated spinach, each plant has its own unique requirements for successful seed collection. Explore the list below to discover how easy—and satisfying—it can be to save seeds and create a self-sustaining garden!
Table of Contents
Saving Seeds: A Guide by Vegetable Variety
Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis):
Asparagus is typically grown from crowns, but you can save seeds from the flowering plants to grow new plants. Allow the berries to fully ripen on the plant before collecting and drying the seeds for storage.
Bean (Phaseolus vulgaris):
Beans are self-pollinating, making seed saving simple. Let the pods fully mature on the plant before harvesting the beans, and ensure they are completely dry before storage.
Bean (Fava) (Vicia faba):
Fava beans are easy to save as they self-pollinate and produce large seeds. Allow the pods to mature fully before harvesting, and store the beans in a cool, dry place.
Beet (Beta vulgaris):
Beets are biennial, so they require two years to produce viable seed. Save seeds by allowing the beet plants to flower and go to seed in their second year, and collect the seeds when the flowers dry.
Broccoli (Brassica oleracea var. italica):
Broccoli can cross-pollinate with other Brassica species, so save seeds from isolated plants. Allow the plant to flower and go to seed, then collect when the seed pods are dry.
Brussels Sprouts (Brassica oleracea var. gemmifera):
Brussels sprouts are a type of Brassica and may cross-pollinate with other cabbage varieties, so isolation is important. Let the plant flower in the second year, and collect seeds from mature, dry seed pods.
Cabbage (Brassica oleracea var. capitata):
Cabbage is biennial, so it will need to overwinter to produce viable seeds in the second year. Allow the cabbage to flower and dry out completely before harvesting the seeds.
Cabbage (Chinese) (Brassica rapa var. pekinensis):
Chinese cabbage, like other Brassicas, should be isolated to prevent cross-pollination. Allow the plant to overwinter and flower in the second year, then collect seeds when the pods dry.
Cantaloupe (Cucumis melo):
Cantaloupes are easy to save from, simply scoop out the seeds and let them dry completely. For the best results, save seeds from well-ripened, healthy fruits.
Carrot (Daucus carota):
Carrots are biennial, and saving seeds requires letting the plants flower in the second year. After flowering, allow the seeds to mature and dry on the plant before harvesting.
Cauliflower (Brassica oleracea var. botrytis):
Like other Brassicas, cauliflower requires isolation to prevent cross-pollination. Allow the plant to flower and produce seeds in the second year, and harvest the seeds once the pods are dry.
Celery (Apium graveolens):
Celery flowers in its second year, and it’s essential to isolate plants to prevent cross-pollination. Once the flowers have bloomed and dried, harvest the seeds carefully.
Collards (Brassica oleracea var. viridis):
Collards are biennial and can cross-pollinate with other Brassica species. Allow the plants to flower in the second year, and collect the seeds when the pods are dry.
Corn (Zea mays):
Corn is wind-pollinated, so saving seeds from a single variety requires isolation. Harvest the ears when the kernels are fully mature, and allow them to dry before storing.
Cucumber (Cucumis sativus):
Cucumbers can cross-pollinate with other cucumber varieties, so isolation is key when saving seeds. Let the cucumbers fully mature on the vine, then scoop out and dry the seeds.
Eggplant (Solanum melongena):
Eggplants self-pollinate, so saving seeds is easy with good isolation practices. Allow the fruit to fully ripen before collecting and drying the seeds.
Endive (Cichorium endivia):
Endive is a biennial plant, and you’ll need to let it flower in the second year to harvest seeds. Once the flowers have dried, you can collect the seeds.
Garden Huckleberry (Solanum scabrum):
Garden huckleberries are annuals that produce seeds in their first year. Wait for the berries to ripen fully before collecting and drying the seeds.
Gourd (Cucurbitaceae):
Gourds are easy to save, as they don’t cross-pollinate with other varieties when they are harvested at full maturity. Simply let the gourd dry fully before removing the seeds for storage.
Ground Cherry (Physalis pruinosa):
Ground cherries produce small, papery husks that protect the seeds. Let the husks dry completely before removing and storing the seeds.
Kale (Brassica oleracea var. sabellica):
Kale is a biennial, and its seeds are collected in the second year after the plant flowers. Ensure that the plants are isolated to prevent cross-pollination with other Brassicas.
Kohlrabi (Brassica oleracea var. gongylodes):
Kohlrabi seeds are saved similarly to other Brassicas, requiring isolation and overwintering to flower the second year. Collect seeds from dry seed pods in the second season.
Leek (Allium ampeloprasum var. porrum):
Leeks can self-pollinate, but for the best seed, allow them to flower in the second year. Harvest the seeds once they’ve matured and dried.
Lettuce (Lactuca sativa):
Lettuce is easy to save, but allow the plants to flower and go to seed. Collect the seeds once they’ve dried, ensuring no cross-pollination from other varieties.
Malabar Spinach (Basella alba):
Malabar spinach produces seeds in its second year, which should be allowed to ripen on the vine. Once fully matured, collect and dry the seeds for storage.
New Zealand Spinach (Tetragonia tetragonioides):
New Zealand spinach is an annual, so you can easily save seeds by letting the plants flower and mature. Collect seeds from the dry pods after flowering.
Okra (Abelmoschus esculentus):
Okra produces pods that contain seeds you can save once they’ve dried completely. Allow the pods to mature on the plant for the best seed quality.
Onion (Allium cepa):
Onions are biennial and will require overwintering to produce seeds. Allow the flowers to bloom in the second year, and collect the seeds once they’ve dried.
Parsnip (Pastinaca sativa):
Parsnips, like carrots, are biennial, so they need to overwinter to produce seeds. Save seeds from mature flowers in the second year once they’ve dried.
Pea & Cowpea (Pisum sativum & Vigna unguiculata):
Peas and cowpeas are self-pollinating, making them easy for seed saving. Allow the pods to mature and dry on the plant before harvesting and storing the seeds.
Pepper (Sweet) (Capsicum annuum):
Sweet peppers are self-pollinating and require isolation to maintain purity. Save seeds from fully ripe, healthy peppers and allow them to dry thoroughly before storage.
Pepper (Hot) (Capsicum spp.):
Hot peppers are self-pollinating but can cross-pollinate with other varieties, so isolation is essential. Harvest seeds from fully ripe peppers, then clean and dry them for storage.
Pumpkin (Cucurbita pepo):
Pumpkins are easy to save seeds from if isolated from other squash varieties. Harvest seeds from fully mature pumpkins, clean them, and let them dry completely.
Radish (Raphanus sativus):
Radishes produce seeds in a single season, making them a beginner-friendly crop for seed saving. Collect seeds from mature, dried seed pods and store them in a cool, dry place.
Rutabaga (Brassica napus var. napobrassica):
Rutabagas are biennial and require overwintering to produce seeds in the second year. Save seeds by harvesting them from dry seed pods after the plant flowers.
Salsify (Tragopogon porrifolius):
Salsify, a biennial plant, produces seeds in the second year after flowering. Harvest the seeds once the flower heads have dried on the plant.
Spinach (Spinacia oleracea):
Spinach is wind-pollinated and can cross-pollinate with other varieties, so spacing is critical. Collect seeds once the plants bolt and the seed heads dry out.
Squash, Summer (Cucurbita pepo):
Save seeds from summer squash by allowing fruits to mature well beyond the edible stage. Scoop out seeds, rinse them, and let them dry completely before storage.
Squash, Winter (Cucurbita maxima & C. moschata):
Winter squash seeds can be saved from fully ripened fruits. Clean the seeds thoroughly, dry them well, and store them in a cool, dry location.
Swiss Chard (Beta vulgaris subsp. cicla):
Swiss chard is a biennial, producing seeds in the second year. Collect seeds from dry seed stalks after the plant has bolted.
Tomatillo (Physalis ixocarpa):
Tomatillos self-pollinate, but isolation ensures pure seeds. Harvest seeds from fully ripened fruits, rinse them to remove the gel coating, and dry them thoroughly.
Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum):
Tomatoes are self-pollinating and ideal for beginners to save seeds. Allow the seeds to ferment to remove their gel coating, rinse, and dry them thoroughly before storing.
Turnip (Brassica rapa subsp. rapa):
Turnips are biennial, producing seeds in their second year after flowering. Save seeds from mature, dry seed pods, ensuring isolation from other Brassica crops.
Watermelon (Citrullus lanatus):
Watermelon seeds can be saved from fully ripe fruits. Rinse seeds to remove any pulp, then let them dry completely before storing.
Saving Seeds: A Guide by Herb Variety
Amaranth (Amaranthus spp.):
Allow the flower heads to mature and dry on the plant. Shake or rub the dry flower heads over a container to release the small black seeds, then clean and store in a cool, dry place.
Anise (Pimpinella anisum):
Let the seed heads turn brown and dry on the plant. Cut and hang them upside down in a paper bag to catch the seeds as they fall, then store in an airtight container.
Arugula (Eruca vesicaria):
Wait for the seed pods to turn brown and dry on the plant. Harvest the pods, break them open to release the seeds, and store them in a cool, dry place.
Basil (Ocimum basilicum):
Allow flowers to develop and dry on the plant until they are brown. Gently shake or crush the seed heads over a container to collect the tiny black seeds.
Borage (Borago officinalis):
Allow flowers to develop into seed pods and dry on the plant. Collect the mature seeds by gently shaking the plant and store them in a dry, cool place.
Caraway (Carum carvi):
Let the seed heads dry on the plant until they turn brown. Harvest the heads, gently rub them to release the seeds, and store in an airtight container.
Catnip (Nepeta cataria):
Allow the flowers to dry and turn brown on the plant. Shake or rub the flower clusters to release the tiny seeds and store them in a dry place.
Chervil (Anthriscus cerefolium):
Let the flowers produce seeds and dry on the plant. Collect the seeds when they turn brown, then store in a cool, dry location.
Chives (Allium schoenoprasum):
Allow the flower heads to dry completely on the plant. Shake or rub the heads to release the tiny black seeds and store them in a dry container.
Cilantro (Coriandrum sativum):
Let the seed heads (coriander) dry on the plant until they are brown. Cut the heads, place them in a paper bag, and shake to collect the seeds.
Corn Salad – Dutch (Valerianella locusta):
Allow flowers to mature and form seeds that dry on the plant. Collect and store the seeds in a cool, dry place.
Corn Salad – French (Valerianella eriocarpa):
Let flowers mature and seeds dry completely on the plant. Harvest and store in a sealed container.
Cress (Lepidium sativum):
Allow flowers to form seed pods and dry on the plant. Collect the dry pods, open them to remove the seeds, and store them in a cool place.
Cumin (Cuminum cyminum):
Wait for seed heads to turn brown and dry on the plant. Harvest and gently rub the heads to release the seeds, then store in a sealed container.
Dill (Anethum graveolens):
Let the flower umbels develop seeds and dry on the plant. Harvest when the seeds are brown, then store in a dry, airtight container.
Echinacea (Echinacea spp.):
Allow flower heads to dry on the plant. Cut them, break apart the seed heads, and separate the seeds from the chaff.
Fenugreek (Trigonella foenum-graecum):
Allow the seed pods to dry and turn brown on the plant. Harvest and split open the pods to collect the seeds.
Fennel – Sweet (Foeniculum vulgare):
Let the seed heads dry on the plant. Harvest the heads, rub them to release the seeds, and store them in a cool place.
Florence Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare var. azoricum):
Allow the seeds to dry on the plant. Collect the seed heads, separate the seeds, and store them in an airtight container.
German Chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla):
Let the flowers dry on the plant. Shake or rub the dried flower heads to release the tiny seeds and store them in a dry place.
Hyssop (Hyssopus officinalis):
Allow flowers to dry and turn brown on the plant. Shake or rub the flower heads to release seeds and store in a cool, dry location.
Lavender Vera (Lavandula angustifolia):
Let flower spikes dry on the plant. Harvest, rub the spikes to release the seeds, and store them in an airtight container.
Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis):
Allow the flowers to develop seeds and dry on the plant. Shake the flower clusters to release the tiny seeds and store them in a cool place.
Marjoram (Origanum majorana):
Let flowers develop and dry on the plant. Shake or rub the flower heads to collect the seeds, then store in a sealed container.
Oregano Italian (Origanum vulgare):
Allow flowers to dry on the plant. Gently shake or rub the flower heads to collect the tiny seeds.
Parsley (Petroselinum crispum):
Let the seed heads dry and turn brown on the plant. Harvest, rub the heads to release the seeds, and store in a cool, dry container.
Peppermint (Mentha × piperita):
Allow flowers to dry completely on the plant. Shake or rub the dried flower heads to collect the seeds and store them.
Purslane (Portulaca oleracea):
Allow flowers to mature and form seed pods. When the pods dry, collect the tiny seeds and store them in an airtight container.
Rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus):
Allow flowers to dry and turn brown on the plant. Shake or rub the dried flowers to release seeds and store in a cool, dry place.
Sage Broadleaf (Salvia officinalis):
Let flowers dry on the plant. Gently rub or shake the dried flower heads to collect the seeds.
Salad Burnet (Sanguisorba minor):
Allow seed heads to dry on the plant. Collect the dried heads, separate the seeds, and store in a cool, dry place.
Sorrel (Rumex acetosa):
Let flower stalks form seeds and dry on the plant. Harvest, remove the seeds from the stalks, and store in a sealed container.
Spearmint (Mentha spicata):
Allow flowers to dry on the plant. Shake or rub the dried flower clusters to collect the seeds and store in an airtight container.
Summer Savory (Satureja hortensis):
Allow flowers to form seed pods and dry on the plant. Collect the pods, open them to release the seeds, and store them.
Thyme (Thymus vulgaris):
Let flowers dry on the plant. Shake or rub the flower clusters to collect the tiny seeds and store in a dry, cool location.
Wormwood (Artemisia absinthium):
Allow flowers to dry and form seeds on the plant. Collect and store the seeds in a sealed container.
Yarrow (Achillea millefolium):
Let flower heads dry completely on the plant. Harvest, gently shake or rub the heads to release seeds, and store them in a cool, dry place.
Why Saving Seeds Matters: A Final Thought
Saving seeds is a rewarding practice that connects you to the full cycle of gardening, from planting to harvesting and back to planting again. By saving seeds from your favorite vegetable varieties, you not only preserve their unique traits but also foster self-sufficiency and sustainability in your garden. Whether you’re a beginner or a seasoned gardener, the process of saving seeds allows you to grow stronger, healthier plants adapted to your local environment.
We hope this list serves as a helpful resource on your seed-saving journey. Remember, every seed you save is a step towards a more resilient and sustainable future for your garden. Happy growing and saving!
FAQ: A Complete Guide to Harvesting and Saving Seeds at Home
What is seed saving, and why is it important?
Seed saving involves collecting seeds from your garden’s plants to use for future planting. It helps preserve plant varieties, reduces gardening costs, and promotes self sufficiency.
Can I save seeds from all types of vegetables?
You can save seeds from most vegetables, but the method depends on whether they are self-pollinating, cross-pollinating, or biennial plants.
What are the easiest vegetables to save seeds from?
Self-pollinating plants like beans, peas, tomatoes, and peppers are beginner-friendly for seed saving.
Do I need to isolate plants for seed saving?
Isolation is necessary for plants that cross-pollinate, like squash, corn, and cucumbers, to maintain seed purity.
How do I know when seeds are ready to be harvested?
Seeds are ready to harvest when the fruit is fully mature, or when seed pods, flowers, or berries have dried on the plant.
What is the best way to dry and store seeds?
Clean and dry seeds thoroughly in a cool, dark place, then store them in airtight containers labeled with the plant name and date.
Can I save seeds from hybrid plants?
You can save seeds from hybrids, but the resulting plants may not retain the parent plant’s characteristics due to genetic variation.
How long do saved seeds remain viable?
Seed viability varies by plant, but most seeds remain viable for 1–5 years if stored properly in cool, dry conditions.
Do I need special tools for seed saving?
Seed saving requires minimal tools, such as scissors for harvesting, containers for drying, and envelopes or jars for storage.
Can saved seeds improve over time?
Yes, seeds saved and planted over several generations can adapt to your local growing conditions, leading to stronger, more resilient plants.