If you’re wondering what you can plant during summer for a productive fall harvest, you’re not alone—and the good news is, you have more options than you might think. In many parts of the U.S., fall gardening can actually be easier than spring. The soil is warm, many pests are past their peak, and quick-growing crops like greens, roots, and brassicas thrive in the cooling temperatures. Whether your spring garden was a bust or you just want more fresh food later in the year, summer is your second chance.
Table of Contents
Below you’ll find the best crops to plant in midsummer for a fall harvest, organized by type, with recommended heirloom varieties from St. Clare Heirloom Seeds. At the end, we’ll also cover what not to plant, how to plan by region, and what challenges you might face—and how to beat them.
Quick-Growing Greens
Fall is a wonderful time for leafy greens—they grow quickly, enjoy cooler temperatures, and often taste even better after a light frost. However, watch for bolting if hot weather lingers, and be sure to water consistently to prevent bitterness. These crops are ideal for gardeners who want a fast and rewarding harvest, especially when tended carefully through shifting conditions. Watch for pests like aphids or flea beetles, and keep soil moist but not soggy to avoid stress. If a sudden cold snap is expected, a floating row cover can help shield young plants and extend the harvest window.
Lettuce: Grows fast and thrives in cool weather; perfect for frequent harvests.
Varieties we recommend: Black-Seeded Simpson, Buttercrunch, Prizehead, Parris Island Cos
Spinach: Loves cool weather; flavor improves with light frost.
Varieties we recommend: Bloomsdale Long Standing, Giant Noble
Arugula: Spicy, fast-growing green that matures in as little as 30 days.
Varieties we recommend: Arugula (Standard Heirloom)
Mustard Greens: Peppery and cold-hardy; excellent for stir-fries and salads.
Varieties we recommend: Southern Giant Curled, Green Wave
Cold-Loving Brassicas
These hardy crops love the cool, steady temperatures of fall and often develop richer flavor after a frost. Most do best when started in late summer. Keep an eye out for cabbage worms and aphids—floating row covers can help keep pests at bay while plants are young. Provide consistent moisture and consider mulching to help regulate soil temperature. As temperatures drop, growth may slow, but flavor and sweetness often improve. If hard frosts are expected, harvest mature heads early or use temporary covers to protect sensitive varieties like cauliflower.
Kale: Handles frost with ease; flavor improves in cold weather.
Varieties we recommend: Dwarf Blue Curled Scotch, Lacinato (Dinosaur Kale)
Cabbage: Slow to mature but stores well; plant early to beat the frost.
Varieties we recommend: Copenhagen Market, Early Jersey Wakefield
Broccoli: Great for fall; side shoots can keep coming after main head.
Varieties we recommend: Waltham 29, Green Sprouting Calabrese
Cauliflower: Sensitive to heat but thrives in fall’s cool-down.
Varieties we recommend: Snowball Self-Blanching
Hardy Root Crops
Root vegetables love fall’s cooler weather and often become sweeter as temperatures drop. These crops are also perfect for storing over winter. For best results, keep the soil evenly moist but not waterlogged—dry spells followed by heavy watering can cause cracking. Watch for pests like root maggots, especially in moist soil. Adding a layer of mulch helps regulate moisture and keeps soil temperatures stable as the season changes. Be sure to harvest before a hard freeze in colder climates, since frozen roots can rot quickly once thawed.
Carrots: Cooler soil improves sweetness; plant in mid to late summer.
Varieties we recommend: Danvers 126, Scarlet Nantes, Chantenay Red Core
Beets: Grow quickly and can tolerate early frosts.
Varieties we recommend: Detroit Dark Red, Cylindra
Turnips: Fast-growing and frost-hardy; greens are edible too.
Varieties we recommend: Purple Top White Globe, Golden Globe
Radishes: One of the quickest fall crops; ready in under 30 days.
Varieties we recommend: Cherry Belle, French Breakfast
Rutabagas: Longer season than turnips but very cold hardy.
Varieties we recommend: American Purple Top
Cool-Weather Legumes
These legumes are quick to mature and are often perfect for a final planting window before frost. Keep an eye on your local forecast and avoid planting too close to your region’s average first frost date. Beans in particular are sensitive to cold, so choose early-maturing varieties and consider row covers if nights cool quickly. Peas can tolerate some light frost, but grow best in mild temperatures—not during extreme heat or when it’s freezing cold. These varieties make a great way to get the very last bit out of your garden for the season and even build up your winter stock!
Peas: Best for early fall in cooler climates; heat may limit performance.
Varieties we recommend: Sugar Ann Snap, Little Marvel Shelling
Bush Beans: Quick to produce; try a second sowing for fall if frost-free window allows.
Varieties we recommend: Contender, Provider
Chard, Kohlrabi, and More
These lesser-known crops grow surprisingly well in the cooler temperatures of fall and are packed with flavor and nutrients. Even if they’re not as familiar, they’re easy to grow and a great way to add variety to your meals. Try one or two in your garden this season—you might be surprised how much you enjoy them!
Swiss Chard: Tolerates heat and cold; excellent for continuous harvest.
Varieties we recommend: Fordhook Giant, Rainbow
Kohlrabi: Crisp and fast-growing; best planted late summer.
Varieties we recommend: Early White Vienna
Collard Greens: Strong performer in southern gardens; frost improves flavor.
Varieties we recommend: Georgia Southern
Herbs for Fall Growing
Many herbs grow best in the cooler temperatures of fall and are perfect for planting in late summer. Cilantro and parsley, for example, thrive in fall conditions and tolerate light frosts, while chives and dill can be started in trays and transplanted as the temperatures begin to drop. Just be sure to give herbs regular water, good drainage, and good sunlight as the days shorten. A little protection from early frost—like a row cover—can help keep them productive right into the cold season.
Cilantro: Quick to bolt in heat but grows well in late summer and fall.
Varieties we recommend: Slow Bolt Cilantro
Parsley: Prefers cool conditions; harvest continues into cold weather.
Varieties we recommend: Moss Curled, Italian Flat Leaf
Site Preparation: Setting the Stage for Fall Success
Before you sow a single seed, take time to get your garden beds ready. A little preparation now gives fall crops a strong start and saves you time later. Begin by clearing out any spent summer crops, weeds, and leftover debris. Pull up old plants, and make sure to toss any diseased material in the trash or a hot compost pile—don’t risk spreading problems by composting it cold.
Next, loosen the soil down to 6–8 inches. You can use a garden fork, broadfork, or a tiller for bigger areas. Just be careful not to work the soil if it’s soggy or heavy clay, as that can make it clumpy and hard. Fall crops like soil that’s loose and drains well. If the surface has become crusty from summer heat, break it up a little to help water soak in and roots grow easier.
Mix in 1–2 inches of compost or well-aged manure to give the soil a fresh boost. This helps feed your fall plants and also improves how the soil holds water and drains. If you use manure, make sure it’s fully composted—fresh manure can burn seedlings and harm the soil’s good microbes.
Depending on your soil, you might also sprinkle on a balanced organic fertilizer. Just go easy with nitrogen on leafy crops like lettuce or spinach—they might grow too fast and bolt if it’s still hot.
Finally, smooth out the surface with a rake, water the bed thoroughly, and let it rest for a day or two before planting. These simple steps help create a healthy foundation for your fall garden.
Fall Seedling Care and Common Challenges
As summer fades and fall approaches, your seedlings will need a bit of extra care to thrive. Start by keeping them well-watered during the hot spells of late summer—especially just after transplanting. Shade cloth or a floating row cover can offer some relief from intense sun and drying winds while young plants establish. As the days grow shorter and cooler, gradually remove shade so seedlings can adapt to the cooler weather. Mulch is especially helpful during this time, helping to conserve soil moisture and buffer against temperature fluctuation. Some crops, especially brassicas or herbs like parsley, may benefit from being started indoors in trays and then transplanted outdoors once the hottest part of summer has passed. This gives them a stronger head start and reduces the risk of heat stress. Be sure to harden off indoor seedlings before transplanting by gradually introducing them to outdoor conditions over the course of 5–7 days—start with a couple hours of shade and slowly increase exposure to sunlight and breeze.
Though fall gardens often face fewer pest issues than spring, they’re not entirely problem-free. Aphids, cabbage worms, and flea beetles may still attack brassicas and leafy greens. Use floating row covers early to protect vulnerable seedlings. As moisture increases with cooler weather, slugs may also appear—especially in mulched beds. Try shallow beer traps (though note: these can pose a hazard to pets if left uncovered), hand-picking, or natural deterrents like crushed eggshells, diatomaceous earth (note: while food-grade DE is generally safe, it can irritate lungs if inhaled—use caution when applying and avoid windy days), or even strips of copper.
Copper strips can be an effective barrier against slugs and snails. When their moist bodies touch the copper, it can create a mild electric charge that repels them. For best results, use clean copper tape or mesh strips at least 1.5–2 inches wide and ensure they’re free of oxidation or dirt, which can reduce effectiveness. Note that copper acts as a barrier, not a cure—it won’t remove pests already inside a protected area.
Keep an eye on your seedlings during warm-to-cool transitions. Growth may slow temporarily, but that’s normal—especially for crops like kale, carrots, and lettuce, which tend to improve in flavor with cool weather. Stay patient, observe your garden daily, and adjust care as the season evolves. A little extra attention during late summer will help your plants thrive as fall settles in.
Final Thoughts
Fall gardening isn’t just a second chance—it’s a easy, rewarding way to keep fresh food on your table longer. With the right timing, good seed choices, and a little planning, your garden can carry you well into the cooler months. Whether you’re sowing quick greens or starting transplants for fall brassicas, it’s not too late to get growing. Browse our full selection of heirloom seeds and make this fall your most productive yet!
What are your thoughts? Drop a comment below!
FAQ:
What vegetables can I plant in summer for a fall harvest?
You can plant quick-growing greens (like lettuce, spinach, arugula), brassicas (like kale, cabbage, broccoli), root crops (like carrots, beets, radishes), legumes (like peas and bush beans), and cool-season herbs (like parsley and cilantro).
Is summer really a good time to start a fall garden?
Yes! Warm soil speeds germination, pests often decline, and many fall crops—like kale and carrots—develop better flavor as temperatures drop.
What leafy greens grow well when planted in midsummer?
Lettuce, spinach, mustard greens, and arugula all grow well when planted in summer and harvested in fall. Choose heat-tolerant varieties and provide regular watering.
Which root vegetables are best for summer planting and fall harvest?
Carrots, beets, turnips, radishes, and rutabagas are excellent choices. They thrive in cooling soil and often become sweeter after frost.
Can I grow cabbage, broccoli, or cauliflower in late summer?
Yes, all three perform well in fall gardens. Start them early enough so they mature before hard frost, and consider using row covers to protect from pests and sudden cold.
How late can I plant peas or bush beans for fall harvest?
Peas and bush beans can be planted for fall, but they must mature before your first expected frost. Use early-maturing varieties and monitor your local frost dates closely.
What herbs can I grow in fall?
Cilantro and parsley both thrive in cool conditions. Cilantro especially prefers fall’s shorter days, and parsley can be harvested even into cold weather with protection.
How do I prepare my garden soil for fall crops?
Remove spent plants, loosen the soil, and mix in compost or aged manure. Water deeply before sowing and let the soil rest a day or two before planting.
What pests should I watch for in a fall garden?
Common fall garden pests include aphids, cabbage worms, flea beetles, and slugs. Use row covers, beer traps, or natural deterrents like diatomaceous earth and copper tape.
Can I start fall crops indoors and transplant them?
Yes, especially for heat-sensitive crops like broccoli, cauliflower, and parsley. Start seeds indoors in late summer and transplant once the weather begins to cool.
What are the best greens for repeated harvests in fall?
Swiss chard, mustard greens, and lettuce can be harvested multiple times. Cut the outer leaves or tops and allow the plants to regrow.
How can I protect fall seedlings from late summer heat?
Use shade cloth or floating row covers to shield young plants during hot days. Water consistently and mulch to retain soil moisture.
Do fall crops need fertilizer?
Yes, but go easy—especially on nitrogen for leafy crops. Compost or a balanced organic fertilizer is usually sufficient when preparing the soil.
Why do some crops taste better after a frost?
Cool temperatures trigger plants like kale, carrots, and Brussels sprouts to convert starches into sugars, improving flavor and sweetness.
What should I avoid planting in late summer?
Avoid warm-season crops that require long days or heat to mature, such as corn, tomatoes, or melons. Focus on cool-season vegetables with shorter maturity windows.
