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Companion Planting Options for your Heirloom / Open Pollinated Vegetable Garden

Companion Planting - St. Clare Heirloom Seeds
Companion planting in your Heirloom / Open Pollinated vegetable garden can be a great asset when it comes to gardening. Whether the pairing has been confirmed by research studies or is simply part of companion planting tradition we’re not sure, but this list is some of what we could find. Here are some companion plantings you may want to try, with information on the type of interaction.

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Soil Temperature Conditions for Vegetable Seed Germination

Soil Temperature Conditions for Vegetable Seed Germination - St. Clare Heirloom Seeds
Soil Temperature Conditions for Vegetable Seed Germination - St. Clare Heirloom Seeds
Crops

 

Asparagus
Beans, Lima
Beans, Snap
Beets
Cabbage
Carrots
Cauliflower
Celery
Corn
Cucumbers
Eggplant
Lettuce
Muskmelons
Okra
Onions
Parsley
Parsnips
Peas
Peppers
Pumpkins
Radishes
Spinach
Squash
Swiss Chard
Tomatoes
Turnips
Watermelons

Minimum (° F)

 

50
60
60
40
40
40
40
40
50
60
60
35
60
60
35
40
35
40
60
60
40
35
60
40
50
40
60

Optimum Range (° F)

 

60-85
65-85
65-85
50-85
45-95
45-85
45-85
60-70
60-95
65-95
75-90
40-80
75-95
70-95
50-95
50-85
50-70
40-75
65-95
70-95
45-90
45-75
70-95
50-85
60-85
60-105
70-95

Optimum (° F)

 

75
85
80
85
85
80
80
70
95
95
85
75
90
95
75
75
65
75
85
95
85
70
95
85
85
85
95

Maximum (° F)

 

95
85
95
95
100
95
100
85
105
105
95
85
100
105
95
90
85
85
95
100
95
85
100
95
95
105
105

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Primary Heirloom Vegetable Garden Plant Food Elements

Key Plant Food Elements That Your
Open Pollinated / Heirloom Vegetable Garden Needs

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How to Plan Your Organic Open Pollinated / Heirloom Vegetable Garden

How to Plan Your Organic Open Pollinated / Heirloom Vegetable Garden - St. Clare Heirloom Seeds

Planning for Planting

by Becky Crouse

Whether you are an experienced Open Pollinated / Heirloom vegetable gardener or you have finally decided that you are ready to graduate from window boxes, planting a vegetable garden requires planning. A properly planned and planted vegetable garden will naturally resist disease, deter insect pests, and be healthy and hardy. With the spring planting season fast approaching, winter is the ideal time to get started.

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Vegetable Gardening on the Contour

By the Soil Conservation Service

Does rainwater from your neighbor’s property drain onto your Heirloom / Open Pollinated vegetable garden? Is your Heirloom / Open Pollinated Vegetable garden on a slope so that water rushes off and is lost to the vegetable plants, taking soil with it? Is your Heirloom / Open Pollinated vegetable garden on a steep slope where you want to plant perennials, shrubs, or azaleas? If so, you should think seriously of planting on the contour or perhaps building a terrace.

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Organic Management of Vegetable Diseases, Part II:

Organic Management of Vegetable Diseases Part II - St. Clare Heirloom Seeds
Gary Vallad and Amanda Gevens
University Florida Ext.

Introduction

Organic Management of Vegetable Diseases Part II - St. Clare Heirloom SeedsThe successful management of both soil borne and foliar diseases requires a multifaceted program, taking into consideration variety selection, cultural methods, biological’s, and chemical applications approved by the Organic Materials Review Institute (OMRI) and certified organic under the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) National Organic Program (NOP). This review emphasizes the management of foliar disease and serves as a guide to assist growers in selecting strategies to manage disease in a sustainable system.

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Organic Management of Vegetable Diseases Part I:

Gary Vallad and Amanda Gevens
University Florida Ext.

Most methods of plant-disease control follow one of the six principles summarized by the acronym REPEAT: Resistance, Eradication; Protection, Exclusion, Avoidance, and Therapy. The following is an overview of these principles with an emphasis on methods acceptable in certified organic vegetable production for controlling plant disease caused by soilborne pathogens.

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New Zealand Spinach in the Open Pollinated / Heirloom Garden

New Zealand Spinach - St. Clare Heirloom Seeds
Jill Samuelson and Dan Drost
Utah State University

New Zealand Spinach - St Clare Heirloom SeedsOpen Pollinated / Heirloom New Zealand spinach is a warm season alternative to regular spinach that does well in hot, dry conditions. Soak seeds in water for 24 hours prior to planting to hasten germination. Seeds should not be planted directly outside until after the last frost date, or start transplants inside 3-4 weeks prior to the last frost. Plant seeds ½ inch deep in loose, fertile soil that has had organic matter incorporated prior to planting. Space plants 3 feet between rows, and every 12 inches after thinning within rows. Although Open Pollinated / Heirloom New Zealand spinach is drought tolerant, water consistently for the best flavor. Fertilize frequently with a high nitrogen fertilizer. Mulches and row covers can help in starting plants outside earlier. Mulches also help with weed control and retaining soil moisture. Leaves should be harvested frequently to encourage new, lush growth. Cut the tips and eat raw or cooked.

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Understanding the USDA Organic Label

Certified Organic Non-GMO Heirloom seeds - St. Clare Heirloom Seeds
Danielle D. Treadwell and Mickie E. Swisher
Florida State University
IFAS Extension

Certified Organic Non-GMO Heirloom seeds - St. Clare Heirloom Seeds
Organic certification addresses a growing worldwide demand for organic seeds.

Organic food and other organically produced products are available to consumers in a variety of retail outlets, and the quantity and diversity of organic food and other organically produced products increases every year. The information that appears on an organic label is variable and depends on the percent of certified ingredients, as well as the manufacturer’s or supplier’s desire to advertise the product as organic. Thus, organic product labels can be difficult for consumers to interpret. In addition, many consumers lack a clear understanding of the regulatory significance of products bearing the United States Department of Agriculture’s “USDA Organic” label.

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Nematode Management in Organic Agriculture

Romy Krueger and Robert McSorley
Florida State University
IFAS Extension

Nematode Management

Nematodes are usually microscopic in size and are classified as unsegmented worms, belonging to the Phylum Nematoda. Plant-parasitic nematodes are a concern for growers of agricultural or Open Pollinated / Heirloom vegetable garden crops. These plant-parasitic nematodes will mainly feed on the roots of plants. A few kinds will feed on foliage but this not common. Many other kinds of nematodes are present in the soil as well. These include decomposers, predators, insect parasites, and animal parasites. Some nematodes are aquatic and do not affect terrestrial plants. Other nematodes act as decomposers, predators, and insect parasites. In farming systems, nematode predators and parasites of insects are beneficial, while nematode parasites of animals and plants are considered pests in agriculture. Beneficial nematodes that

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Growing Open Pollinated / Heirloom Tomatoes in the Home Vegetable Garden

Heirloom tomatoes - St. Clare Heirloom Seeds
By Allan Stoner

Open Pollinated / Heirloom Tomatoes are one of the most popular vegetables grown in home gardens. Open Pollinated / Heirloom Tomatoes grow under a wide variety of conditions with a minimum of effort, and they require relatively little space for a large production. Of tropical American origin, tomatoes do not thrive in very cool weather. They are suited to spring, summer, and autumn culture over most of the North and upper South, and they will grow in winter in the extreme South. Each Open Pollinated / Heirloom tomato plant may be expected to yield 8 to 10 pounds of fruit. The number of tomato plants needed will depend on the size of your family. To spread the Open Pollinated / Heirloom tomato, to harvest over the growing season, stagger planting dates at 2 to 3 week intervals.

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Blossom End Rot in Open Pollinated / Heirloom Garden Vegetables

Sherman V. Thomson/Extension Plant Pathologist
Scott C. Ockey/Plant Disease Diagnostician

Blossom end rot is a non-parasitic disease affecting Open Pollinated / Heirloom tomato, pepper, and watermelon fruit. Fruits are usually affected when about one-third or more grown, but the disease can occur during any growth stage of the fruit. Losses caused by blossom end rot vary from negligible to severe.

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Powdery Mildew on Tomatoes

Sherman V. Thomson/Extension Plant Pathologist
Scott C. Ockey/Plant Disease Diagnostician

 

Powdery mildew on tomatoes - St. Clare Heirloom Seeds
Three leaves infected with powdery mildew showing different signs and symptoms.

Powdery mildew on Tomatoes, caused by the fungus Leveillula taurica, occurs infrequently in home gardens. However, the disease can be very devastating in commercially-grown tomatoes where yield losses may exceed 50% in heavily infected fields. The extent of loss depends on environmental conditions, date of disease onset, and effectiveness of fungicide control. Hot, dry days with an occasional rainstorm are conducive to disease development.

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Cold Frame, Hot Bed Construction and Use for the home Heirloom / Open Pollinated Vegetable Garden

Elton M. Smith
Ohio State University Extension

Hot beds and cold frames are used by Heirloom / Open Pollinated vegetable gardeners for propagating vegetables for the garden. Hot beds are used for starting the Heirloom / Open Pollinated vegetable plants and cold frames for tempering or hardening vegetable plants to outdoor conditions before transplanting. For most home vegetable gardeners the same frame can serve both purposes. The principle difference between the two is that hot beds have a heat source. Traditionally, hot beds and cold frames were built even with or slightly below ground level and covered by glass sash. Present-day frames are often completely above ground and plastic covered because film is generally available at a reasonable cost.

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Damping-off and Root Rot of Heirloom / Open Pollinated Beans in your Garden

Sally A. Miller, Richard M. Riedel, Randall C. Rowe
Ohio State University Extension

Root rots, damping-off before and after seedling emergence, and seed rots are destructive diseases of Heirloom / Open Pollinated green, snap, lima, and dry beans. These diseases are caused primarily by soil borne fungi. Significant losses may occur to susceptible varieties, especially if cool, wet weather conditions prevail for the first few weeks after vegetable seeding and then are followed by hot, dry weather. Disease incidence and severity often vary greatly, even in areas with a history of root rot. In the same Heirloom / Open Pollinated vegetable growing season, it is not uncommon to lose a Heirloom / Open Pollinated vegetable crop completely and then re-seed and experience no problems. This situation results from changes in biological, environmental, and soil conditions. Since there are no commercially acceptable resistant varieties, vegetable growers should learn how to recognize these diseases and use a combination of management practices to minimize potential losses.

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Build a Snow Fence Windbreak for you Open Pollinated / Heirloom Vegetable Garden

A windbreak can be used to conserve soil moisture in your Open Pollinated / Heirloom vegetable garden or to keep the wind from blowing the vine plants around. Use a material that casts low shade while filtering wind is ideal. This simple version uses wood snow fencing, which is inexpensive, easy to install and remove, and may be attractive enough to leave up year-round.

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Some Open Pollinated / Heirloom Garden Vegetables Like It Hot

Open Pollinated / Heirloom garden vegetables vary so much in their preferred growing temperatures, planting the heirloom vegetable garden isn’t a one day job. Be prepared to spend several days over the course early spring to early summer planting heirloom vegetable seeds and plants. You’ll plant cool weather crops a few weeks before the last spring frost. Set out warm weather vegetable crops just after the last spring frost. Hot weather vegetable crops cannot tolerate frost or cold soil. Unless you can protect them with a portable cold frame or row covers, plant them at least three weeks after the last spring frost. In warm climates, plant cool weather vegetable crops again in early fall so that they grow during the fall and winter. Here is a guide to the temperature preferences of 30 common heirloom garden vegetables;

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10 Tips for Storing Your Seeds

Pinto Bean - St. Clare Heirloom SeedsIf you have leftover vegetable seeds or you want to save your seeds from your Heirloom Open Pollinated plants from your vegetable garden this year, you'll need to store them properly to ensure good germination.

 

 

  1. They need to be dry and cool no matter where you're storing your seeds. Humidity and warmth shorten the shelf life of seeds.
  2. The refrigerator is generally the best place for storing your seeds, or else another cool spot in your living space.
  3. Keep your seed packets in plastic food storage bags, plastic film canisters, mason jars a lid, or glass canisters with gasketed lids.
  4. You can check your bigger Open Pollinated / Heirloom vegetable seeds to make sure they are dry enough by smashing a couple with a hammer. If the seed shatters, then it is dry enough.
  5. To keep seeds dry, wrap 2 heaping tablespoons of powdered milk in 4 layers of facial tissue, then put the milk packet inside the storage container with the seed packets, or add a packet of silica gel. DO NOT use oxygen absorbers in storing seeds or vacuum seal them. Seeds need oxygen to remain viable, as they are living organisms. Only use moisture absorbers.
  6. Store each year's Open Pollinated / Heirloom vegetable seeds together and date them. Because most seeds last about 3 years, you'll know at a glance which container of seeds might be past its prime when planting season comes.
  7. When you're ready to plant, remove seed containers from the refrigerator and keep them closed until the seeds warm to room temperature. Otherwise, moisture in the air will condense on the seeds, causing them to clump together.
  8. If you're gathering and saving seeds from your own Open Pollinated / Heirloom plants, spread the seeds on newspaper and let them air dry for about a week. Write seed names on the newspaper so there's no mix-up. Pack the air-dried seeds in small paper packets or envelopes, and label with plant name, date, and other pertinent information. Remember, if you want to save your own seeds, you'll need to plant open-pollinated or heirloom varieties. They'll come back true to type; hybrids won't.
  9. You can also dry saved seeds on paper towels. They'll stick to the towels when dry, so roll them up right in the towel to store them. When you're ready to plant, just tear off bits of the towel, one seed at a time, and plant seed and towel right in the soil.
  10. Even if you're organized, methodical, and careful about storing seeds, it's good to realize and accept the fact that some seeds just won't germinate the following year. Home Open Pollinated / Heirloom vegetable gardeners will find that stored sweet corn and parsnip seeds, in particular, have low germination rates, and some other seeds will only remain viable for a year or two.

These ten tips for storing your seeds will help you keep your seeds viable for longer!

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Making a Broom Corn Broom

Making a Broom Corn broom requires practice, but anyone can make one with a little bit of practice. The secret is to bind the stems together as tightly as you can, which is best done with the help of a handy doorknob. You can use a straight stick or dowel rod for the handle. Or you could even use a straight branch for your broom handle.

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How to Make a Scarecrow for your Open Pollinated / Heirloom Vegetable Garden

A scarecrow in the farmers field. - St. Clare Heirloom Seeds
To build a scarecrow from scratch, you need only a few materials and a willingness to use your imagination. – St. Clare Heirloom Seeds

Scarecrows have been scaring birds away, or, in some cases amusing them, for as long as man has grown crops. Some say these whimsical creatures were first used by tribes in central or northern Europe; others claim that Indians were the first to employ them. Wherever the origin, the scarecrow has been used on farms and in Open Pollinated / Heirloom vegetable gardens across the country for many years.

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Top 10 Reasons to Use Organic Mulch

By putting an organic mulch in your Heirloom vegetable garden, you’ll save hours of time each year. You should apply a layer of wood chips, grass clippings, shredded bark, sawdust, or pine needles in your vegetable garden because:

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All about Heirloom / Open Pollinated Beans

All about Heirloom / Open Pollinated Beans - St. Clare Heirloom Seeds
Henderson's Black Valentine Bush BeanHutterite Soup Bush BeanChristmas Lima BeanFordhook 242 Bush Lima BeanBrockton Horticultural Pole Bean
Phaseolus vulgaris – Leguminosae or Fabaceae (Pea Family)
Beans are a crop that grow well in warm weather, so wait until after your last frost date to plant. If the soil is too cold the bean seeds will just sit in the ground and rot. Plan an average of ten to fifteen plants per person. Cold, wet weather can bring about disease. To prevent disease don’t touch healthy Bean plants after working with diseased ones and try not to touch them when there wet. Most dried beans whether bush or semi-vining, require long growing seasons. To direct-sow them plant 1” deep and space them about 6” apart. Beans are very high in protein. Like other legumes, soybeans and cowpeas are excellent green manure crops that enrich soil with organic matter and nitrogen. Some people plant a crop of soybeans just to till them under to add organic matter to there soil.

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All About Heirloom Tomatoes

All About Heirloom Tomatoes - St. Clare Heirloom Seeds
Amish Paste TomatoGreen Zebra TomatoGolden Jubilee TomatoHomestead TomatoMarglobe Supreme Tomato

There are many factors along the way that can affect a heirloom tomato’s quality such as watering, fertilizing, ripeness when picking, and storage and handling factors. Two mistakes often made when heirloom tomatoes make it into the kitchen is refrigerating them or leaving them on a sunny windowsill to ripen (only tomato plants need full sun; harvested fruit does not). Both of these practices will degrade flavor.

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